Crafty Science and Geekery

Posts tagged ‘Amigurumi’

Sea Slug Amigurumi (Pattern)

Sea slugs can be remarkably beautiful creatures, with bright colours and complex patterns. This little guy is not a specific type of sea slug, but more an experiment with hyperbolic crochet, a style I recently discovered. He will probably get some form of googly eyes, when I find some that suit.

DSCN1856

Hyperbolic crochet can be used to make some amazing designs and also to study the structure of the universe and express mathematical concepts. It also makes amazing coral, and I encourage people to have a look at the Crochet Coral Reef project.

This pattern took me a few hours to design. I am happy for people to use the pattern for themselves (hence releasing it for free) but please credit me if you do. Please do not sell this pattern, and please do not post the pattern directly on your blog/site/etc, but link back to my blog: strangenessisconserved.wordpress.com

PDF of pattern: SeaSlug_Pyper_StrangenessIsConserved

 Materials

  • Black yarn (or whatever colour you want the body)
  • Several shades of blue (or whatever colour gradient you want)
  • Stuffing
  • Hook, scissors, needles etc.

 Techniques:

  • I join my rounds, and count the chain starting each row as a stitch.
  • If working in a spiral replace any chains with stitches
  • ch: chain
  • sc: Single crochet
  • inc: 2 stitches in one base loop. sc-inc would be increase using sc
  • dec: stitch two base loops together. dc-dec would use dc

There are several different stitch naming conventions. I use sc as:

  • hook through next base loop
  • yarn over and pull through base loop
  • yarn over and pull through first loop on hook
  • yarn over and pull through both loops on hook

DSCN1858

Body

In black:

0. ch 20
1. In third loop from end sc x 2, Along chain sc x1 in each loop, In last loop sc x 6, Rotate, sc x 1 in each loop back along chain, sc x 3 in final loop and join [48]
2. sc around, inc x 3 at each end (space out around end) [54]
3. sc around, inc x 3 at each end (space out around end) [60]
4-6. sc around, inc x 1 at each end [62][64][66]
7. In Back Loops Only sc around, dec x1 at each end [64]
8-9. Sc around, dec x 1 at each end [62][60]
10-12. Sc around, dec x 3 at each end (space out around end) [54][48][42]

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing

To finish off start sewing the body together starting at one end. I used a whip stitch and kept the stitches on either side of the seam opposite each other. At the ends you may need to be slightly creative with your stitching to turn the corner into a neat join. Sew most of the seam together, and stuff before you reach the end. Then finish sewing.

DSCN1857

Ruffle/frill

To start tie on your inner (in my case darkest) colour to the front loops of row 6-7 that are left sticking out. These loops will form the base for your ruffle

  1. [sc x 1, inc x 1] around the body
  2. Next colour: [sc x 1, inc x 1] around
  3. Repeat until frilled to your liking

This repeating block quickly gave a very ruffled ruffle, so you may wish to try different patterns, such as [sc x 2, in x 1] to get a less frilly edge if desired.

 

 

 

 

Poro Amigurumi (Pattern)

Poros are small furry creatures native to the Howling Abyss map in League of Legends. Their favourite food is Poro-Snax, and they will happily follow around any summoner who feeds them.

Poro_Amig

For this pattern I used two different types of wool. The cream wool is thicker than the brown, and so I used a 4mm hook for the body. The horns and feet are made using a 3.5mm hook. If your yarns are the same thickness, and/or hooks are the same size, you may need to add an extra row of increase to the body of the Poro. In this case I recommend making the horns and legs first so you can see how the body looks.

This pattern took me quite a few hours to design. I am happy for people to use the pattern for themselves (hence releasing it for free) but please credit me if you do. Please do not sell this pattern, and please do not post the pattern directly on your blog/site/etc, but link back to my blog.

PDF of Pattern: PoroLoL_Pyper_StrangenessIsConserved

Materials

  • Brown yarn
  • White/cream yarn
  • Pink yarn
  • Buttons or similar for the eyes
  • Hook, scissors, pins and stuffing
  • Needle for sewing with yarn.

 Techniques:

  • I join my rounds, and count the chain starting each row as a stitch.
  • If working in a spiral replace any chains with stitches
  • ch: chain
  • sc: Single crochet
  • dc: Double crochet
  • inc: 2 stitches in one base loop. sc-inc would be increase using sc
  • dec: stitch two base loops together. dc-dec would use dc

There are several different stitch naming conventions. I use sc as:

  • hook through next base loop
  • yarn over and pull through base loop
  • yarn over and pull through first loop on hook
  • yarn over and pull through both loops on hook

And dc as

  • yarn over
  • hook through next base loop
  • Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook
  • Yarn over and pull through two remaining loops

Body

In cream:

1.      Magic circle (ch2, sc x 5) [6]
2.     sc-inc x 6 [12]
3.     (inc, sc) x 6 [18]
4.     (inc, sc x 2) x6 [24]
5.     (inc, sc x 3) x6 [30]
6.     (inc, sc x 4) x6 [36]
7.     (inc, sc x 5) x6 [42]
8-11. sc x 48 [42]
12.   (dec, sc x5) x6 [36]
13.   sc x36 [36]
14.   (dec, sc x4) x6 [30]
15.   sc x30 [30]
16.   (dec, sc x3) x6 [24]
17.   sc x24 [24]
18.   (dec, sc x2) x6 [18]
Stuff at this point
19.   (dec, sc) x6 [12]
20.   Dec x6 [6]
Finish off

DSCN1706

Horns

Make two

In brown:

1.       Magic circle (ch2, sc, dc x3, sc) [6]
2.       Ch2, sc, dc, dc-inc, dc, sc-inc  [8]
3-5. Ch2, sc, dc x4, sc x2 [8]
6.       Ch2, sc-inc, dc x3, dc-inc, scx2 [10]
Tie off and leave a long tail for sewing

Feet

Make four

Start with brown and change to cream:

1.       Magic circle (ch3, dc x11) [12]
2.       Sc x12 [12]
Tie off brown and change to cream
3-5. Sc x12 [12]
6.       Sc-dec x6 [6]
Tie off and flatten the feet. Leave a long tail for sewing

Tongue

The tongue is somewhat optional. Most of the time a Poro will have its tongue out ready to lick up any Poro-Snax in the vicinity. I freehanded mine, and did not write down what exactly I did. I also think there is room for a lot of improvement (or felt), so I will not attempt a pattern.

Assembly

Pin the horns and feet into position. Once you are happy with their placement sew them into place

The eyes for my Poro are black buttons. Again these are pinned to place them before being sewn on. I happen to like button eyes, so use any eyes you want. Other types may need to be attached differently.

If you wish to add a tongue, position it once everything else is in place and sew it on.

DSCN1708

Marill Pokemon Amigurumi (Pattern)

After playing pokemon Sapphire a bit recently I decided to try my hand at making a Marill. Why a Marill you ask? Because it is made from very simple shapes, and the main complication (the tail) was a technique I had encountered before and could appropriate. I am pretty happy with how it turned out, and has been drifting around my desk since.

DSCN1650

A pattern for the Pokémon Marill. I used a 3.5mm hook and it is ~12cm long (~5 inch). I join my rounds unless otherwise indicated, but I think the pattern would still work if done in a spiral.

This pattern took me quite a few hours to design. I am happy for people to use the pattern for themselves (hence releasing it for free) but please credit me if you do. Please do not sell this pattern, and please do not post the pattern directly on your blog/site/etc, but link back to my blog: strangenessisconserved.wordpress.com

Pdf of pattern: PokemonMarill_Pyper_StrangenessIsConserved

Techniques

  • sc: single crochet
  • ½ sc: half single crochet
  • inc: 2 sc in one base loop
  • dec: sc two base loops together
  • ch: chain

There are several different stitch naming conventions. I use a sc as:

  • hook through next base loop
  • yarn over and pull through base loop
  • yarn over and pull through first loop on hook
  • yarn over and pull through both loops on hook

And ½ sc as:

  • Hook through next base loop
  • Yarn over and pull through chain
  • Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook

Materials

  • Blue yarn
  • Black yarn
  • White yarn
  • Stuffing
  • Black buttons (The ones I used are ~1cm across)
  • Hook, scissors, pins, etc
  • Needle for sewing with yarn.

Body

In blue:

1.       Magic circle 6 [6]
2.       inc x 6 [12]
3.       (inc, sc) x 6 [18]
4.       (inc, sc x 2) x6 [24]
5.       (inc, sc x 3) x6 [30]
6.       (inc, sc x 4) x6 [36]
7.       (inc, sc x 5) x6 [42]
8.       (inc, sc x 6) x6 [48]
9-15. sc x 48 [48]
16.   (dec, sc x6) x6 [42]
17.   (dec, sc x5) x6 [36]
18.   (dec, sc x4) x6 [30]
19.   (dec, sc x3) x6 [24]
20.   (dec, sc x2) x6 [18]
21.   (dec, sc) x6 [12]
22.   Dec x6 [6]

Stuff around row 19-20, and finish off

Legs

Make two, in blue:

1.       Magic Circle 6 [6]
2.      (sc, inc x2) x2 [10]
3-7.  sc x10 [10]
8.      sc x5

Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing

For row 8 sc 5 then finish off. This gives a half row, which will make it easier to attach the feet at the right angle to the body

Arms

Make two, in blue:

1.       Magic Circle 6 [6]
2.      (sc x2, inc) x2 [8]
3-6.  Sc x8 [8]
7.      Sc x4

Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing

For row 7 sc 4 then finish off. This gives a half row, which will make it easier to attach the arms at the right angle to the body

Tail

Using blue, then black:

The tail bob is made first out of blue:

1.       Magic circle 6 [6]
2.       inc x 6 [12]
3.       (inc, sc) x 6 [18]
4.       (inc, sc x 2) x6 [24]
5-8. Sc x 24 [24]
9.       (dec, sc x2) x6 [18]
10.   (dec , sc) x6 [12]
11.   Dec x6

Stuff around row 9-10, finish off ball, cut off blue and tie on black. The black should be coming out of the bottom “pole” of the sphere.

The tail zig-zaggy bit is in black:

  • Ch 18 (can be a bit longer if wanted, up to about 24)
  • In second chain from end sc x3
  • In each loop of the chain do sc x3 all the way back along the chain to the ball
  • In the last chain do not sc, but use it to tie off the black, leave a tail for assembly.

Ears

Make two, using red then blue:

1.       Red Magic Circle 6 [6]
2.       Red inc x6 [12]
Tie off red and change to blue
3.       Blue (inc, sc) x6 [18]
4.       Blue ½ sc x18 [18]
5.       (sc, dec) x 6 [12]
6.       Blue dec x6

Finish off, and hide the end. Squash the ears so the red curves in and the blue curves out.

Belly

In white

1.       Magic circle 6 [6]
2.       inc x 6 [12]
3.       (inc, sc) x 6 [18]
4.       (inc, sc x 2) x6 [24]
5.       (inc, sc x 3) x6 [30]
6.       (inc, sc x 4) x6 [36]

Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing

Assembly

Once all the components are made, pin them into position on the body. This may take a bit of fiddling around to get everything looking right. Sew them all into position once you have placed them. The ears will need a new blue wool thread to attach, as they are sewn at the base of each circle to the head, rather than where the yarn tied off.

Once the limbs are all attached place the button eyes. I used white thread to sew the buttons on through only one set of button holes (positioned at the top) to imitate the white gleam Marill is often shown having. The mouth is just stitched on with red wool.

DSCN1651

Ladybug Amigurumi (Pattern)

I finally designed my first amigurumi! My little ladybug turned out really cute so I thought I would write up the pattern properly. Please leave me a comment if you make one, I would love to see them. Also if you find any mistakes just comment below and I will fix them up.

Pyper Ladybug

I used a 3.5mm hook and she is ~12cm long (~5 inch). I join my rounds unless otherwise indicated, but I think the pattern would still work if done in a spiral.

For this pattern I have attempted to shape the ladybug to give and oval body and flat base to the head, hence the strange looking rows in the pattern. I think it has given a noticeable effect, but that may just be because I know to look for it. She should still look fine if you just use the normal (evenly spaced) increase patterns.

This pattern took me quite a few hours to design. I am happy for people to use the pattern for themselves (hence releasing it for free) but please credit me (Pyper) if you do. Do not sell this pattern or creatures made from this pattern, and please do not post the pattern directly on your blog/site/etc, but link back to strangenessisconserved.wordpress.com

pdf of pattern: Amigurumi Ladybug – Pyper – StrangenessIsConserved

 Techniques:

  • sc: single crochet
  • inc: 2 sc in one base loop
  • dec: sc two base loops together

There seems to be several terminologies around single vs double crochet. I use sc:

  • hook through next base loop
  • yarn over and pull through base loop
  • yarn over and pull through first loop on hook
  • yarn over and pull through both loops on hook

 Materials

  • Red yarn (or whichever colour you want her)
  • Black yarn
  • White yarn (for the eyes)
  • Buttons or similar to put in the middle of the eyes (<1cm across)
  • Hook, scissors, pins and stuffing
  • Needle for sewing with yarn.

 Body

In red:

1.       Magic circle 6 [6]
2.       inc x 6 [12]
3.       (inc, sc) x 6 [18]
4.       inc, (sc x 3), inc, (sc x 3), inc, inc, (sc x 3), inc, (sc x 3), inc [24]
5.       inc, (sc x 4), inc, (sc x 4), inc, (sc x 1), inc, (sc x 4), inc, (sc x 4), inc, (sc x 1) [30]
6.       inc, (sc x 5), inc, (sc x 5), inc, (sc x 2), inc, (sc x 5), inc, (sc x 5), inc, (sc x 2) [36]
7.       inc, (sc x 6), inc, (sc x 6), inc, (sc x 3), inc, (sc x 6), inc, (sc x 6), inc, (sc x 3) [42]
8.       inc, (sc x 7), inc, (sc x 7), inc, (sc x 4), inc, (sc x 7), inc, (sc x 7), inc, (sc x 4) [48]
9-15. sc x 48 [48]

Finish off

In black:

1.       Magic circle 6 [6]
2.       inc x 6 [12]
3.       (inc, sc) x 6 [18]
4.       (inc, sc x 2) x 6 [24]
5.       (inc, sc) x 12 [36]
6.       (inc, sc x 5) x 6 [42]
7.       (inc, sc x 6) x 6 [48]

Finish off leaving a long tail. Sew the black base to the red body stitch to stitch. Stuff before closing.

Head

In black:

1.       Magic 6 [6]
2.       inc x 6 [12]
3.       (inc x 2, sc) x 3, sc x 3 [18]
4.       inc, sc, inc, sc x 2, inc, sc, inc, sc x 2, inc, sc, inc, sc x 5 [24]
5-8   sc x 24 [24]
9.    dec, sc, dec, sc, sc, dec, sc, dec, sc, sc, dec, sc, dec, sc x 5 [18]

Finish off leaving a long tail. Stuff the head and sew it to the front of the body, the base (flatter part) of the head level with the base of the body.

Legs

Make 6

In black:

1.       magic 6 [6]
2.       inc x 6 [12]
3-4. sc x 12 [12]
5.       dec x 6 [6]

Stuff the foot and now start working around in a spiral rather than joining each row. Decrease the next two stitches to leave you with a ring of 4 working stitches. Sc around in a spiral until the leg is the desired leg. Mine are ~5cm or ~2in. Once the leg is long enough finish off leaving a tail to sew onto body.

Once you have all 6 position the legs on the base of the body, near the edge but still on the black. Pin them in place and adjust them until it looks how you want it. Then sew them in place.

Spots

For this one I used 6 larger spots and two smaller in black:

Large spot

1.       Magic 6 [6]
2.       inc x 6 [12]

Finish off leaving a long tail to sew onto body

Small spot:

1.       Magic circle 8 [8]

Finish off leaving a long tail to sew onto body

Make as many or as few of any size you wish and position them on the body with pins before sewing. Ladybugs are generally symmetric, but that is optional.

Eyes

Make 2

In white:

1.       Magic circle 8 [8]

Finish off leaving a long tail to sew onto head. Position the eyes where you want them on the head with pins, then sew them on. Depending on what you are putting in the middle of the eyes, you may need to attach before you sew down the eyes. I just sewed buttons on after sewing the eyes down.

DSCN1595

Enderman Amigurumi

I made this one for my brother, who loves all things Minecraft. It is based on the Red Devil pattern but made with black (obviously).

Ender

The eyes I had to improvise and are as follows:

  • With purple magic circle 6. Join and tie off
    • You will now have 6 loops to work with
  • With pink tie on to circle (in loop 1):
    • ch 3 for height.
    • In same stitch do a triple crochet
    • In  next stitch (loop 2) triple crochet,
    • Then chain 3 and tie off in the same stitch (loop 2)
  • With pink again do the same in loops 4 and 5 of the purple.

This gives the effect of three pixel blocks pink-purple-pink. It strikes me that I should probably learn how to read those patterns that are all lines, circles and crosses for this sort of thing.

Eve Amigurumi

I seem to be on a crochet kick at the moment so here is Eve from Wall-E. Pattern is from Sukigirl and face is from The Craft Frog

Eve

Baneling Amigurumi

I absently stumbled across an adorable amigurumi baneling in my travels, and decided I had to learn to crochet. Armed with nothing but entheusiasm, some wool and a hook I dived into the World of Amigurumi. Considering it is my first ever amigurumi project, I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.

I made it for my boyfriend’s birthday and he loves it!

The pattern to Beware the Mighty Baneling is available over on Ch’tite Geekette, and thankyou to Fanny for making her wonderful pattern free.

Baneling Amig